A few thoughts on: Trends
Trends are not only occurring in fashion and industry, they also play an important role in mountaineering. Some of them define the course of history.
The history of mountaineering shows that trends have often...
Close, but no cigar: Lunag Ri (6907 m)
When my parents and I arrived in Phaplu, my Dad’s home village, it marked my first return to Nepal in 15 years. Mostly because of the earthquake in April and May, much had changed: Even the house in which my...
A few thoughts on: Risk
In the mountains, risk is always present. The question is: What undertakings are worth taking a risk?
Three years ago, I soloed the route “Les Barbares”. The line in the Mont Blanc massif links thin ice smears...
Avaatara – A journey back, and a journey to Lebanon
It has been quite a while since I had been as motivated to sport climb as I was last spring. Even though I began climbing at crags, my focus has been directed towards mountaineering for several years now. But...
A few thoughts on: Friendship
In Werner Herzog’s film ‘Gasherbrum – Der leuchtende Berg [The Shining Mountain]’ Reinhold Messner openly admits that he does not consider Hans Kammerlander a friend. For him, other criteria were more important...
The common thread
“You know, David, according to our original plan, we’d be in Alaska now, freezing our butts off,” Conrad muses, while we enjoy the mild temps of the desert on a ledge high above the canyon floor of Zion.
A few thoughts on:
No one starts their alpine career on the headwall of Cerro Torre; yet that is what I had in mind for myself. Spoilt from success in competition climbing, in 2009 I declared the 3,000 m granite spire my next...
Rusty Bolts and the Sugar Loaf
My whole 2014 revolved around Cerro Torre, the film release in March, film festivals around the world, and then coming back to Patagonia at the end of the year. Just before the Patagonia trip and after the...
A Weighty Experiment
“It is the weight, not numbers of experiments that is to be regarded.” - Isaac Newton
Immediately, you feel unwelcome. The walls rise all around us. Avalanches triggered by seracs are noisy reminders of what...
You rarely see them on pictures, but without passionate and creative photographers and filmers (like Martin Mungo Hanslmayr in this picture) there would be very few pictures that are...
The up-and-going-full-throttle-for-18-hours-face of my friend Ben when we did a new variation on a wintery El Mocho in Patagonia in 2014. Haven't climbed in Patagonia since, but I am...
The Hahnenkamm traverse in East Tyrol was one of the coldest climbs I had ever experienced back in 2010. The first sun rays on the second day provided at least as much joy as the summit a...
Klemens on a long moderate near Arco several years ago. Looking forward to some mellow climbing in the sun this summer in between expeditions.
Life in basecamp often means spending long days in pretty places. It gets worse than that...
an Berg und Fels"
Climbing is a way of life for me, and now I wrote a book about it (in German). It is about my adventures on the walls, about the extreme and brilliant things in my life.
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Background: On the Headwall of Cerro Torre, 2012 © L. Else/Red Bull Content Pool