First ascent on the Moose's Tooth
The cards were played and we had drawn aces. Finally, I collapsed into prone paralysis. Just before unconsciousness, the memorable words of French climber Jean Afanasieff came to mind: “This is the fucking...
I was in Chamonix last week with Peter Ortner to attend the Piolets d’Or award ceremony. We’d been invited because the Jury had decided to award a ‘special mention’ to us for the first free ascent of Cerro...
First Winter Ascent
In summer 2008 I climbed the “Desperation of the North Face”, a first ascent on the Sagwand in the Valsertal, with Jorg Verhoeven. It was the first bigger alpine undertaking for me during which I could put my...
Head in the mountains -
Feet in the valley
I flew to Patagonia this winter, as I have done the last three years. Shortly before my departure, the weather window for which you should be ready to set off in El Chalten, appeared. I arrived there, and the...
It’s a little after seven in the morning. A cold wind blows over the ground and stirs up the snow crystals, which look like sparks from the blaze of a campfire in the light of our headlamps. It’s been about an...
Safety Discussion -
All but “too easy”.
July 2012: Peter and I have been hanging in this grey-yellow sea of limestone for hours, 200 meters above the start of our route. Progress is slow - extremely slow. Every couple minutes I try to get higher up,...
Since more than four weeks Peter and I are now sitting here at the Baltoro glacier, in this barren mountain range, which consists of nothing but snow, ice and rock. Black, gray and white are the colors that...
Alpine Climbing Mecca Karakoram –
I had major expectations on my expedition to Pakistan. My main goal was to climb the Trango Tower, but already before I started the journey and saw the Karakoram with my own eyes, I hoped, more than anything...
Off to Pakistan
Already last year, when travelling to the Kashmir Himalayas with Stef Siegrist and Denis Burdet, it became apparent that the potential of big and appealing projects in the Alps would soon be limited for me....
A barbarian adventure
It's cold, dark and I’m all alone. Over frozen snow that covers the Argentière glacier, I’m walking towards the impressive, 500 meter high north-west face of the
Points supérieures de Pré de Bar
. The closer I...
Chilling in the hotel after an exhausting day. Funny actually that Peter wore his flip flops all day...
Not used to the heat in Islamabad yet, I was sweating like hell during our meeting with the local alpine club
Finally on the move... Pakistan, here we come!
A year ago Peter and I were racking up for our first ascent on the Laserz S-face, now racking up for Pakistan!
About 100 home made bird beaks. Should be enough for a while...
No sun, no powder, still good to be outside...
Rain, rain, rain... don't know what's going on here in Tirol. I'll get my skis out tmrw and take them for a ride!
Gotta run fast for a self portrait on the summit!
Find an interview in german on my solo ascent of the Mittelpfeiler via the link below...
Two more weeks and Peter and I will be in the big mountains again!
an Berg und Fels"
Climbing is a way of life for me, and now I wrote a book about it (in German). It is about my adventures on the walls, about the extreme and brilliant things in my life.
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Background: On the Headwall of Cerro Torre, 2012 © L. Else/Red Bull Content Pool