2008: Together with five friends I’m sitting in a small hut in the Cochamó Valley of Chile. As I’m flipping through the pages of an old, wrinkled climbing magazine that has probably been laying there f...
I can't believe it… For more than three years I was driven by the idea of freeclimbing the Compressor route on Cerro Torre and now this dream has become true! My partner Peter Ortner and I started on January ...
At 5.30 in the morning I lock my car behind me. I cross a dried-out brook bed on the right side of the valley and follow a field of broken rock uphill. After 1 ½ hours I'm already standing beneath the wall that de...
I’m hanging in the second pitch and I notice that my right foot is slowly sliding away. The tiny foothold I’m standing on is getting worse and worse and just one moment later I’m already hurtling throug...
I grab my daisy-chain and clip myself into the belay of the fourth pitch. I already climbed this passage with my second try today and now I’m sure that I can make it. The next pitch is still somewhere between 8a an...
On November 4th the „Gipfelstürmer“, a club of Tyrolean alpinists, celebrated their centenary. At the party I encountered Klaus Geiswinkler by accident, who drawed my attention to his first ascent at the...
Together with Peter Ortner I‘m standing beneath the heavily overhanging Sonnwand near Lofer. Actually we wanted to try the route Donnervogel today, but now the Stoanmandl, a route 50 metres to the left, is attracti...
05.09. Shortly after midnight I arrive at Delhi airport. My Swiss partners Stef Siegrist and Denis Durdet are already waiting in the big entrance hall with our cameraman Rob Frost and photographer Stefan Schlumpf.06. &nd...
Together with Stephan Siegrist and Denis Burdet I will fly to Delhi on the 4th of September. Our destination is the north face of the so called Cerro Kishtwar at a dizzy height of 6200m in the Indian Kashmir-Himalaya.Lon...
In 2003 Stef Siegrist and Ueli Steck put up a new route on the Eiger Northface. About five years later they managed to reach the top by free climbing after practicing the pitches a few days before. They climbed the route...
Some years ago I saw a photo of a climber in the “American Beauty”. I was thrilled. The second pitch is such a perfect crack you very rarely find in Europe. The climber placed friends size 0,5 in th...
It’s almost unbelievable that I’ve never climbed anything at the Cima Grande before. I’ve only been at the top of the western brother once and I decided to do something about that…By the evening of the 8th of July I’m dr...
Just about a year ago I climbed Alex Huber's route „Bellavista“. Starting with five sophisticated pitches the route proceeds towards the left part of the big roof of the Cima Ovest. Beside the „Bellavista“-route, Alex cr...
At the 23rd of June I drove to Chamonix together with Peter Ortner. Because Peter had just time for a few days we took the cog railroad to Montenvers and made our way to the Leschaux Hut. When we arrived there and wanted...
In 2001 I climbed the Yosemite variant on Taufenkopf together with Daniel Steuerer. It was one of my first routes, where friends and nuts were necessary. Just while I was belaying Daniel at the forth belay I saw a big ey...
