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15.06.2011

Sansara, 8b+ Lofer

You don’t always have to travel half around the world to climb a fantastic route. Actually it’s sufficient to sit in your car for an hour and a half to drive from Innsbruck to Lofer.

Alex Huber has recognized that already some time ago. He had left his marks above Lofer in terms of impressive first ascents. One of them is the route „Sansara“. It’s just about 100 metres long, but still one of the most difficult routes around. And not only difficult, but also challenging. Only seven bolts were added by Alex. The rest oft he route you either have to belay by yourself or do a wide „runout“.

On June 7th I started on the route together with Peter Ortner. The first pitch Peter is leading. The second one is already the crux-pitch. I’m checking out all of the moves. At the second try I fall from the middle of the pitch, at the third from the very end.

After a rest of about 15 minutes I try again. The moves are already much easier than before. I no longer have to think, I know where I have to climb to, know how to turn. I climb through the pitch.

The remaining pitches (five of them) aren’t that diffucult anymore. I do the roof at the end of the route with my second try. Peter is leading the last pitch. Then it goes down to the alp, where a well-earned beer is waiting for us.

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