Super Cirill, 8a/8a+Ticino

In April 2011 Ines Papert climbed the nine-pitch route „Super Cirill“. She described the route as „one oft he most beautiful routes I’ve ever climbed.“. When I took a look at the pics, I knew why… ingenious rock, perfect rock and all clean.

I got to Ticino with Klemens Holzleitner. On the first day we climb an easy route near Ponte Brolla. In the evening we’re going on to Sonlerto via the Valle Bavona. As the sun was nearly burning in the morning, we waited till 2 p.m….

The first pitch leads along a large flake and some small roofs - no problem. The second one is a bit more challenging. On the last metres there are no holds for your hands, so you just have to push through your left foot. Actually no problem, but the last placement is 7 metres down… I managed it and the third pitch is also done on my first go. In the next pitch my right foot slips away. I fall, but accomplish with my second try. The crux-pitch is graded 8a/8a+, but my fingers fit perfectly in the crack and I climb it on sight. The last three pitches are relatively easy and pose no problems.

The next day I try an old multi-pitch project of Pesche Wüthrich, but in the hot sun I’ve no chance. It seem like i have to come back to Ticino soon…

MANAGEMENTFlorian KlinglerSchillerstraße 13
6020 Innsbruck – Austria
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